enjoy and remember, this is how i did my valve adjustment. this procedure is not warrantied, garanteed or even promised to work for u. ok? i want u to understand that when u work on ur bike, it's ur responsibility to do the job right. any eff ups is on u and not my fault. i'm just tryin help u out for free. i got (300) make that 14,000 miles on the bike since i did the valves and she runs strong. no issues.
Date of project: May 23, 2009
2007 gsx r600
NOTE: for this write up, the clutch lever side is the left side and the throttle grip side is the right side of the bike.
You don’t need to be a pro mechanic to perform the valve adjustment, just have basic tool knowledge and basic mechanical ability. There are a lot of steps to accomplish this but it is very easy. I took my time (cuz i’m slow and need vodka at the end of the day) and spent 3 days to do it.
You’ll notice that i do things a little different than the manual. This is to make my life easy. For instance, the manual says to only prop up the gas tank,--it must be removed. You’ll be glad u did. Also this is the first time i did this on my gixxer so i learned a couple of things and you will benefit from my mistakes. You’ll notice when ur lookin at the pics and say, wait what? He still got the radiator fan motor on, hehe.
Day 1 - tear down.
Day 2 - valve clearance check and adjustment.
Day 3 - put it all back together.
If u can, get the manual. It’s a nice tool to have.
You’ll need to buy the stuff to do the job and most important, have a plan as to where u gonna get the shims u will need. I’m lucky, i know a dude that has them.
I bought valve cover gasket, pair valve gaskets, spark plugs, air filter, manual cam chain tensioner with gasket. $204.51
1- remove seat. I like to return bolts back to their hole (when possible) once an item is removed. Helps me to not lose bolts.
2- remove the 2 small plastics that are held in by the seat bolts. Gently pull them outward to disengage the velcro at the rear of the plastic and then slide them rearward.
3- remove the gas tank. (pics 1-2-3) Prop it up and slide off the 2 vent hoses and disconnect the electrical connector. Disconnect the fuel line at the gas tank side. The fuel line is a quick disconnect, squeeze the green part and slide off. Only a small amount of fuel will leak out.(pics 4-5)
4- remove the allen head bolt at the rear of the tank, the tank lifts up and off. I wrapped a rag and grocery bag around the end of the fuel line to help protect it from contaminants and so gas aint drippin.
5- remove the plastic (undercover?) The plastic directly below the headlight, 2 phillips head screws and 4 nylon rivets. Remove >both< side plastics.
6- remove the air box. I took the top off first then removed the lower part of it. Remove the pcv hose (pic 6). Remove the 3 electric plugs (pics 7-8) the 2 outside slide up and off, the one in the middle disconnects. Remove the 11 screws (pics 9-9a-9b). Lift the top off (pic 10).
(pics 11-12) yes that’s a stock suzuki paper air filter. My third one. I decided to try a BMC filter and so far i like it. (pics 13-14) for those who use the K&N air filter u will need to remove this gasket. Leave in for the BMC
7- The lower part is held on by a 10 mm bolt and 4 clamps underneath (pics 15-16 sorry blurry). They are just like hose clamp and it takes a phillips head screwdriver to loosen them. They’re tough to get at. TIP: remove the fuel injector electrical connector in front of the clamp ur loosening for extra work space. (pic 18). When the clamp is loose enuf, reconnect the fuel injector electrical connector. Then disconnect the pair valve hose on the right side (pic 17). the lower part now lifts off.
Now u see wires everywhere. The good news is that for each component the electrical connector is unique, so no worry of connecting different things together. However, the spark plug coil connectors >are the same< and could possibly be cross wired (not good) BUT, on my bike the wire harness is so stiff that the plug wires line up automatic making it nearly impossible to cross wire the spark plugs. You’ll understand when u have it in ur hand.
Now take a moment and look things over. You do not need to disconnect every electrical plug, only the ones to give u room to remove the valve cover.
8- Next we disconnect the electrical connector for the PAIR control solenoid valve. Let’s call it the PCSV (pics 19-20). slip the 2 hoses off the valve cover, then slide the PCSV to the right off of its mounting bracket (pic 21).
9- Disconnect the cam position sensor (CMP) electrical connector (pic 22) and the other electrical connectors that are obviously in the way. 4 plugs if i can count. (pics 23-24). Note: the valve cover is going to lift up and then slide forward and down for removal. Look closely at (pic 24), the white plug goes to the black plug. This one was difficult and did not want to separate. I ended up using a flat tip screw driver to squeeze and pry it apart.
10- by hand, disconnect the electrical connectors from the spark plug coils. (Pic 23) shows 2 spark plug coils with their electrical connectors removed. The coils have a blue/white sticker on top. By hand, gently twist and pull the spark plug coils up and out. Do not bang or drop the coils. (Pic 24) is after the coils have been removed. Place these in order on a table so that when u reinstall they go back to the same place. Remove the spark plugs. I use the spark plug wrench that is in the tool kit that comes with the bike.
11- time to move the throttle body out of the way. Find the throttle cables on the left side of the bike (pic 25). Note the position of the throttle cable adjusting nuts and screws. Then loosen the lock nuts and turn the adjusting screws to give slack to the cables. Lift the cables off their guide and pull the lead bead at the cable end out of its holder. Open the throttle by hand or with a screw driver to ease this process.
12- on the right side (pic 26) pull back the rubber boot and disconnect the electrical connector. Then remove the other electric plug (pic 27) by sliding it off of its mounting bracket. Now loosen the 4 clamps at the base of the throttle body. They r just like the one for the air box in step 7 but not as hard to get at. Pull the throttle body up and move it towards the rear (pics 28-29).
13- (pic 30) squeeze and push down to release the wire harness from this mount. It’s located on the right side of the bike and can also be seen in the lower left corner of (pic 28).